2004 Bollinger R.D.

Disgorged 7 November 2017. Dosage 3 g/l. Tasted blind. Toasty deep straw. Lots of evolution on the nose. A bit more evolved on the palate than the 2002 vintage. Less lively. Lower acidity. But lots to savour now. (JR)

The 2004 Champagne R.D. Extra Brut is amplified and offers a distillation of the bold hallmark traits of the house. It is composed of 66% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. Pouring a ripe golden hue, it is rich and expressive with floral vanilla bean, plum, toasted brioche, white flowers, and espresso. The palate is luxurious and long, with powerful concentration and smoke that lingers long on the finish. As it opens, the nose evolves into more savory aromas. including broth and saline earth. Full and assertive, this is showing well now. Drink over the next 15 or so years. Disgorged on February 21, 2018. Located in Ay, Bollinger was founded in 1829. To mark the 200th anniversary of the house, they have several projects in the works scheduled for completion in 2029, not only to commemorate the occasion but to carry the house into their next chapter. Construction is underway to renovate the Maison Deuil, the long-time private residence on the property, into a 20-room hotel along with a restaurant, which is sure to make a significant impact on the tiny village. A signature of the house is that they have their own cooperage on site to build and maintain their barrels. Gael Chaunut took over the position from Denis Saint Arroman as head cooper for the house in December of 2020. All the wood is sourced from their property in the forest of Cuis. As négociants, they purchase 60% their grapes and own 179 hectares of planted vineyards. Sixty percent of their production is dedicated to Pinot Noir, with 25% to Chardonnay and the remainder to Meunier. The inaugural release of 2012 La Côte Aux Enfants is the second single-parcel bottling from the house and completes the collection of Pinot Noir Champagnes alongside the PN Series and Vieilles Vignes Françaises. Stylistically, the Vieille Vignes Françaises remains the richest and most powerful wine in the range, with an emphasis on the concentration of its fruit from the ungrafted vines of Clos Saint Jacques.

The 2004 Extra-Brut R.D. is a very pretty, understated Champagne that shows the more nuanced side that is typical of the vintage, while the signature Bollinger richness lies more in the background. That is the same impression I had last year, when I tasted the 2004 from magnum at the maison. Apricot, plum, hazelnut, chamomile, spice and dried flowers all open with a bit of aeration. The R.D. is not an obvious or overt Champagne, but it is quite beautiful. It will be interesting to see if a bit more richness develops post-disgorgement. The 2004 is 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay taken from 16 villages, 88% Grand Crus and 12% Premier Crus. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. (AG)