2016 Chassagne Montrachet Maltroie

Healthy pale yellow. Pure aromas of yellow peach and flowers, plus a riper whiff of pineapple. Dense and harmonious on the palate, with thick flavors of fresh apricot and lemon drop nicely framed by well-integrated acidity. Finishes with bracing, rising length. This premier cru should age well.

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie was taken from tank but had not been fined. This has a lovely, minerally bouquet reminding me of a limestone cave. The palate is fresh and tensile with a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious and poised with a nuanced, peach skin and dried apricot finish. There are just seven barrels this year, but each one is excellent—as good as the 2015 last year.

Assembled just before the 2017 harvest and in cask on lees. Rather floral nose. Great and crunchy and very energetic and fine and rich even. But with massive acidity and yet more obvious fruit and middle than, say, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Again, this builds towards the finish. (JR)