2004 Riesling G-Max Trocken

The 2004 Riesling G-Max was the 10th wine of the vertical tasting and followed the 2002 vintage in a flight with rather coolish vintages. It is herbal and delicately nutty, with almond notes on the nose yet less pronounced despite the firmer, concentrated fruit. This 2004 is characterized more by the soil than the sun. Slender on the palate but also dense and rich and even slightly sweetish, this G-Max is somewhat bitter and astringent on the finish but has nevertheless impressed some of my fellow tasters, including Klaus Peter Keller. I still remain rather reserved toward the 2004 from the outset. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Tasted blind. So pure, so cool, like a fresh spring breeze wafting through a mountain meadow with orchard blossom, herbs and a clear stream. Close your eyes and you are there. But even the less-poetically minded will be tantalised by the sensory perception of crisp green fruit, garden mint and exhilarating freshness. On the palate this is Riesling in its purest manifestation, with vibrant acidity, crunchy fruit, sappy herbs and a stimulating salty minerality. Compact, packed with flavour, incredibly taut and utterly compelling. It would be far too profane to try to divide this marvel of complexity into its individual components. (MS)

Pale straw with greenish tinge. Cool, earthy minerality on the nose, just a hint of green fruit. On the palate the saline mineral content is so compact, it’s almost like sucking a stone, but a smidgeon of residual sugar moderates the impact. A little citrus fruit is barely getting a look-in, but I don’t think the G-Max was ever intended to be a fruit-driven wine. (MS)