2008 Morgon Cote de Py

Burgaud’s 2008 Morgon Cote de Py is scented with cherry, red currant, and narcissus. It combines cut and brightness of fruit with clean meatiness and stony minerality. More concentrated than the Charmes, it is also predictably more severe, so that the wafting floral character and sheer elegance of that cuvee seems enhanced when one returns to it. But without doubt, this Cote de Py will be well worth following after bottling, not to mention after being in bottle for a few years. It’s possible that this will benefit from the last-minute inclusion of a small lot (which tasted outstanding from barrel) earmarked to become the 2008 Cuvee James. Jean-Marc Burgaud is ensconced in an impressive new facility and as usual brimming with ideas about how he is going to make what are among his region’s handful of most exciting wines even better. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. 213 483-5900