2005 Vina Tondonia Reserva

A staggering range of aromas, from dried mango and papaya through toasted nuts to dried flowers. Powerful and concentrated, but not at all fat, this has a stunning texture, due to the interplay of tannins and richness. Very long, intense finish.

López de Heredia has stayed remarkably true to its roots. Current sister duo Maria José and Mercedes Lopez de Heredia claim that nothing has essentially changed in the winemaking since the winery was founded in 1877. They continue to cultivate the vineyards and indeed make their wines following the techniques and philosophies laid down over 140 years ago. This has been no accident – they have made a conscious decision not to use modern technology in their winemaking. Lovely, glowing, mature deep ruby. Orange rim. Heady and complex – the most complex wine in The Bunch tasting by a mile! So fresh and layered and appetising. Seems silly to even other to write this but it could only be Rioja! So pure!!!! Dry finish but there is enough fruit here. (JR)

Deep fox red. Similar to the 2004 but perhaps more open, richer and more intense with also more marked freshness – less subtle but more forceful. Still all that lovely complexity and still many years to go because the tannins are even now pretty firm and chewy. (JH)