2007 Bollinger Grande Annee Rose

72% Pinot Noir, including 5–7% still red, 28% Chardonnay. Medium onion-skin. Coffee lees expression over dark cherry, some flint and dried-herb savouriness. Some old-cream complexity that needs coaxing from the glass. Firm, chalky texture with red and black cherry, some orange-citrus and plenty of nutty lees. Fine, brooding and dense. Needs time to open. Very fine rosé. (TJ)

Tasted blind. Deep, slightly greyish salmon colour. Real depth and intrigue to this nose. Could be Nyetimber 1086? Lots of phenolics on the finish but pretty exciting on the way there. Very meaty. Food wine. Very good. (JR)

Given the house's connection to Bond, 007 sounds like a brilliant Bollinger vintage. Normally, I'm not so fond of the vintage's correct, but somewhat neutral character. I remember that major investments were made by the house at this time and the results are excellent. In my world, this is one of the most surprising vintages from the small boutique house in Aÿ. From the start, this rosé reminds us of the great vintages in the 80's, when the house style was more nutty and smoky than later years, somewhat easier and peachy creations. Tasted next to a Vieilles Vignes Francaises of extra-terrestrial eminence from the same year, the wine stood well with a huge poise and power in a rich burgundy style. The aromas are dominated by dried roses, blood orange, forest mushroom, leather and hazelnut cream.