2012 Vinsobres Les Hauts de Julien Vieilles Vignes
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Tasting notes
The Perrin family own 60 hectares in Vinsobres, at 200–400 m, 90-year-old vines planted on terraces. 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache. Manual harvest, co-fermentation in oak and aged 18 months in barrel, no filtration. Deep red still with brick rim. Exotic spice – verging on incense – and still so much fruit even though the leaf-mulch bottle age is to the fore. Dry finesse on the palate, powder-fine texture still filled out by the fruit. (JH)
Critic scores
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Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Deep ruby. Potent smoke- and earth-accented dark berry and cherry liqueur aromas gain vivacity from a suave floral element. Sappy, palate-staining blueberry, bitter cherry and violet pastille flavors are given spine and back-end cut by juicy acidity. Clings with impressive tenacity on the gently tannic finish, which emphatically repeats the floral and smoke notes.
Showing much more open and expressive than when I tasted it last year (or said another way, I under-rated it), the 2012 Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres les Hauts de Julien comes from close to 100-year-old vines located in the northern part of the Southern Rhône. A blend of Syrah and Grenache that’s still in barrel, it offers thrilling notes of smoked dark fruits, pepper meats, graphite and big minerality to go with a full-bodied, focused, concentrated and serious feel on the palate. This is impressive across the board, and might be the greatest Vinsobres I’ve ever tasted. Short-term cellaring is advised, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see this still drinking brilliantly at age 20.
Barrel sample. Bright crimson. Very correct and savoury, almost salty. With meat and tannins and some strong polished tannins underneath. A bit like licking rocks. Wait! (JR)
About the producer
This Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate is one of the Rhône’s most famous addresses. With a history stretching back to the 16th century, Beaucastel remains family owned and run, with the fifth generation of the Perrin family – Marc, Pierre, Thomas, Cécile, Charles, Matthieu and César – at the helm today.