2015 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The glorious summer of 2015 led to high expectations among the wine-writing fraternity, and many a Grosses Gewächs showed eager to meet this anticipation with seduction by noticeable residual sugar. The Hubacker reflects the ripeness of the vintage with an attractive fragrance of lanolin, beeswax and floral aromas, but the palate does not bow to the temptation of luscious opulence and sweetness, rather it almost contrarily exhibits notes of crisp green fruit, subtle phenolic astringency and animating acidity. A firm structure will keep this wine in good shape for many years to come. (MS)
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Michael Schmidt
More reviews and scores
Like its Kirchspiel counterpart, this leads with Sauvignon-like aromas, though here they are of passion fruit and gooseberry more than of green herbs. Firm in feel and decisively underlain by chalk and stone, this finishes with impressive sheer persistence but lacks the clarity or lift of this year’s Von der Fels bottling. Its grip incorporates an undeniable element of bitterness, which hopefully time will ameliorate.
The Hubacker does not give its aromas away cheaply, but entices your nose to come closer with a cool, fresh and aromatic fragrance, faintly reminiscent of the finest of Loire Sauvignon Blanc, in a fumy, flinty sort of way. A gentle floral notion adds further intrigue. On the palate gooseberry, lemon and lime reflect a green, animating character, but acidity is well-integrated into a creamy texture and generous body. One of Keller’s more reserved Grosse Gewächse, it will appeal to those who appreciate subtle minerality combined with a firm grip. (MS)
Citrus-colored, the 2015 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling Trocken GG has a really ripe, intense, yet elegant and almost tropical-flavored bouquet. It does not lack the precision and chalky lemon flavor of the "Hubi" limestone rock terroir. Powerful, dense and complex on the palate, this has the grip and mineral tension of a great wine. This is probably the most vital and concentrated "Hubi" I have tasted so far. It is enormously salty and tension-filled, but at the same time very fine and as fruit-drive as it is chalk-driven. The finish is tight, long, pure and powerful, and its endless salinity, piquancy and tension make it incredibly stimulating. This is a great dry German Riesling or, as Keller puts it: "This is how Hubacker should taste."
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.