2015 Morey St Denis En la Rue de Vergy

White limestone. Planted half a ha of Chardonnay in 1981 because he thought it was suitable but no-one had proved it. Sweet start and then great density. Smoky but not at all austere. Never premixed even though they have been treated exactly the same as their other whites. (JR)

Oaky/mealy nose. Sulphur showing a little for the moment. Tight, dry, a little short on fruit in the middle but that could be the sulphur getting in the way, hence the plus. (JH)

(from vines planted in the 1980s on rocky soil): Good dark red. Quite reticent on the nose, and a bit diffuse. Then juicy and sweet in the mouth, with soil-driven red berry flavors complicated by red licorice and mineral notes. Good density and breadth here--and a bit more size than usual for this wine. Finishes with dusty, horizontal tannins. Clair noted that this bottling is taking on more power as the vines age.