2012 Chablis Vaulorent

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent comes from 5.28 hectares of 30-year-old vine and spends 15 months in stainless steel and small barrels. It has a well-defined if slightly simple nose that lacks the chutzpah of Vaulorent’s finest exponents. The palate is balanced but simple with primal grapefruit and pithy pear, but the finish seems a little muddled in comparison with others. Drink now-2016. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)