2008 Bruno Paillard Assemblage Brut Vintage

From a fantastic vintage, the 2008 Assemblage Extra Brut (disgorged in November 2015) has a bright citrus color and shows a clear, super pure and deep bouquet with discreet, bright fruit but predominantly chalky-mineral aromas. The assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (42% each) plus Pinot Meunier (16%) is a clear, straight, lean and mineral, bone dry, tight and concentrated Champagne with a lot of energy, precision and whole wheat flavors. The finish is still restrained but very dense, deep and complex in its purely mineral expression. A great wine that can be stored for decades. It was aged on the lees for seven years.

Bruno Paillard's citrus-colored 2008 Brut Assemblage Millésimé is a lean and lively, mineral palate-cleanser. It's a love-me-or-leave me cuvée comprised of 42% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, selected from ten of the best terroirs the company is cultivating. During seven years in the winery, this intense and chalky, energetically fresh and silky textured Champagne has developed a gorgeous mix of white, red and yellow fruits that are quite prominent at the moment. There are lemon and grapefruit notes, as well as marzipan, floral and chalky mineral flavors. Disgorged in 2015 with five grams of dosage and equipped with a beautiful label from the Korean artist Bang Hai Ja, the 2008 is still a bit yeasty and reductive on the nose, and austerely dry on the palate. But it is still full of drive and energy. This is Champagne for wine freaks or thirsty throats. It will gain complexity over the next decade. Jun 16, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2018-2028

Featuring all three major grapes here, this has a little spice and some chalky, toasty notes with aromas of dried flowers and grapefruit/citrus aromas that dominate. The palate marries lemons and peaches; it's gently grippy and brings a load of crunchy red-berry fruits on the finish. Drink now. Oct 16, www.jamessuckling.com