2014 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has an intense bouquet with open-knit wild strawberry, raspberry and subtle ferrous notes. This is still quite backward as you would expect, but unfurls to reveal veins of orange rind and even a hint of tangy marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with a grippy entry. This is perhaps the first Malconsorts from Dujac where I really notice the backbone and density, perhaps the first where I can really commend the typicité that floods through on the finish. I would not touch bottles for three or four years but there is clearly great potential. Tasted at Flint Wines's Domaine Dujac tasting in London.

Mid to light cherry red, with a pink rim. Peppery like the 2016 but almost dark-fruited; dark-red fruit at least. On the palate an unexpected density, the tannins very compact and almost unyielding at the moment, even if there are no rough edges. Excellent freshness but all packed into itself for the moment though it did eventually yield a little more perfume from the empty glass. (JH)

Medium red. This wine showed an exhilarating hint of orange zest a year ago from barrel and has carried that energy into the bottle, which boasts terrific lift to its aromas of raspberry, iron, minerals and white pepper. At once suave and powerful, full yet weightless, offering outstanding precision to its flavors of berries, flowers, spices and orange blossom. A lovely sappy wine with perfectly judged extraction, this savory beauty finishes with stunning rising perfume and outstanding clarity and breadth.