2014 Echezeaux

(100% new oak; from vines in Clos Saint-Denis, Les Treux and Les Cruots): Dark, bright red with ruby highlights; the brilliant color of these 2014s made me want to jump into the glass. Very pure aromas of dark berries, spices and blood orange, plus a hint of lemon. Dense, sweet and powerful, showing serious volume to its still-tight flavors of black cherry, dark berries and spices. This fruit was very ripe in 2014 (12. 8% natural alcohol, chaptalized to 13. 4%), as 25% of the crop was lost to hail, said Rouget, who described the storm as "like a violent green harvest." This distinctly masculine style of Echézeaux finishes with a serious spine of firm tannins that reach the teeth; it will need extended aging.

The 2014 Echezeaux Grand Cru, matured entirely in new oak, has a gorgeous black cherry, raspberry coulis and mineral-infused bouquet, coiled tightly at first but unfurling with each swirl of the glass. The palate is well structured, a Grand Cru with admirable backbone. There is patently impressive depth with multi-layered red and black fruit, edging towards something more rich and dense towards the persistent finish. Emmanuel Rouget was surprised when I opined a preference for his Cros Parantoux this year, so obviously he is a big fan. And yes, this is an excellent grand cru, yet it does not possess quite the same nervosite as the Parantoux. Apr 2016, www.robertparker.com