2014 Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots

Once again, based on the nose alone, this could be nothing else but Chablis with its mélange of tidal pool, mineral reduction, citrus blossom and discreet spice nuances. There is fantastic detail to the focused, mineral-driven and powerful middle weight plus flavors that do a slow build from the mid-palate all the way back to the explosively long, balanced and bone dry finish. This appears to be drawn directly from liquid Kimmeridgian and should also amply reward longer-term cellaring. In a word, brilliant.

Very pale yellow. Very ripe but vibrant nose combines lime, spices, white pepper, crushed rock and liquid minerals. Delivers a saline, sappy combination of rich peachy fruit and floral/mineral lift, with a remarkably weightless quality. The chewy, saline, bone-dry finish reinforced by minerality conveys a powerful impression of dry extract and Kimmeridgian soil. Really inexorable on the back end.

Very pale yellow with a faint green tinge. Lime zest, white flowers and white pepper on the bright, high-pitched nose. Sappy, ripe and substantial, showing sexy sweetness of fruit in a technically very dry wine. Superb acidity and energy here, but not as tightly wound as the Preuses. The full south exposure of the vines gives this wine its amplitude and generosity. As with the regular Bougros, this large-scaled, long wine is not at all hard or austere.