2006 Riesling G-Max Trocken

The 2006 Riesling G-Max was served blind after the 2003 as the sixth wine of the G-Max vertical. It is clear, with rather cool and slightly smoky fruit as well as herbal and citric notes and those of pencil tips. Dense, juicy and spicy, with a fine tannin structure on the palate, this 2006 shows the first nuances of age but structurally remains a taut, even quite youthful G-Max. There are not that many dry 2006 Rieslings of this class in Germany after rainfalls had met warm temperatures in early October after a beautiful summer that let the grapes ripen early. The resulting thin skins were very vulnerable for the onset of botrytis that, in the end, forced the producers to a very speedy but super selective harvest. There were only a very few great dry 2006 Rieslings produced in Germany that year, and Keller's G-Max is one of them. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Tasted blind. Caramel, honey, figs and a slight notion of tropical fruit are the aromatic hallmarks of fully ripe fruit which has also been touched by a hint of botrytis. On the palate acidity exercises moderation, which gives the texture a slightly oily complexion. Nevertheless, a juicy expression of sweet and fleshy fruit manages to delight and is well supported by an unusually savoury turn of minerality, no doubt an idiosyncrasy of the vintage. A hint of cabbage is creeping in, indicating that the 2006 G-Max is for drinking here and now. (MS)

Set for release late this year, the 2006 Riesling trocken G-Max represents Keller’s top selection. from a parcel (varying from year to year) whose identity he chooses not to divulge. A striking melange of buddleia, rowan, sea spray, and citrus oil rises from the glass, and in the mouth this exhibits a combination of intensity with elegance, clarity, lift, and refinement that goes well beyond his other wines. A crystalline concentration of berries, citrus, pear, and purple plum, crusted in salt and chalk, barely tinged with fruit pit piquancy, and haloed by floral perfume leads to an impressively concentrated yet positively wafting finish. Klaus-Peter Keller says his grapes weren’t soft yet when the August rain hit, and he harvested late by local standards – from 6th-26th of October – by which time the nights were cool, which in his opinion preserved the aromas, warded-off botrytis, and allowed him to achieve normal crop levels, expressive ripeness and dry wines in the 11.9-13% alcohol range.