2014 Chablis Butteaux

Certainly in the same league as the 2013, yet with a more understated, elegant style, the 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux offers a complex bouquet of white flowers, stone fruits, lemon curd, toasted nuts, and subtle yet building, flinty minerality. While this beauty starts out tight and ungiving, it blossoms with time in the glass and has a seamlessness, as well as purity, that’s world-class. Playing in the medium-bodied end of the spectrum, with bright yet integrated acidity, it needs decanting if drinking in the next couple of years, and I suspect is best with a good 4-5 years of bottle age.

The 2014 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru from Domaine François Raveneau is drinking beautifully, even though I am fully aware of committing infanticide. It is one of my favorite vineyards ­– and in my view, an underrated one – from a benchmark Chablis growing season. A stunning, razor-sharp bouquet offers limestone and petrichor aromas, and hints of walnut and shucked oyster shells develop with aeration. That fresh marine influence translates into a palate that displays exquisite balance and just a hint of toffee apple, closing in slightly toward the finish. There is so much tension and grace here. Brilliant.

The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux is a brilliant young wine, offering up a classy bouquet of minty green apple, salty oystershells, lemon oil, wet stones and subtle white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample but controlled, with a stunning alliance of elegantly glossy texture and tangy acidity. Structurally, the wine is quite tight-knit and firm at the core, with exceptional depth, though such is its balance and harmony that it's deceptively drinkable today. The true fireworks, however, will be reserved for those with the patience to cellar this Chablis for another 6 or 7 years. A strong case could be made that the 2014 is the finest Raveneau Butteaux in a decade.