2004 Salon le Mesnil
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Tasting notes
The 2004 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut is another rather structured, tensile wine from a generally rather open vintage. Wafting from the glass are scents of citrus rind, crisp green apple, preserved citrus, fresh bread and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, tangy and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a long, chalky finish, it's complemented by a pillowy pinpoint mousse. Unlike many wines from 2004, this Salon (tasted from a bottle disgorged in January 2019) still has potential to improve with further bottle age.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The Salon 2004 Blanc de Blancs Brut Le Mesnil follows the famous 2002, and although it comes from a very complicated vintage, it is of excellent quality. It comes from 20 parcels on ten hectares in the Grand Cru. Disgorged in April 2015, the wine shows a great purity and chalky intensity, with white mushrooms and lemon flavors. There is a great finesse and elegance on the palate, which shows a great purity, tension and minerality. This is a pretty young and persistent Blanc de Blancs with a youthful grip and tension. Great purity and freshness. Jun 2016, www.robertparker.com
Very refined light lemony nose with a slightly dusty character, almost like sherbet but not sweet. Biscuity note softens the really crisp and elegant lemon flavour. Tiny bubbles, and smoothed by the creamy lees texture. Very youthful and so tight. So light on its feet but incredibly long. || Twinkly-eyed Didier Depond, president of Champagne Salon and in his 20th year at the company, explains that the heatwave conditions of 2003 had a significant influence on 2004: low ground water meant warmer soils, promoting growth and minimising disease. Abundant fruit set so that they took the unusual step of carrying out a green harvest. A cool August prolonged the ripening season, then September was fine for the harvest. As always, 100% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, aged at least 10 years on the lees. Disgorged autumn 2015 with a dosage of 5-6 g/l. Incidentally, importers Corney & Barrow suggest drink dates from now to 2050+, and tasting the older wines in this line-up, I can see it will continue a lot longer than I have suggested but it does turn into a very different drink. Apr 16, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2016-2028
The 2004 Salon has been superb each time I have tasted it over the last year or so. Bright, tense and crystalline, with all of the energy that is typical of both Salon and the vintage in the Côte des Blancs, the 2004 bristles with superb precision and cool, pulsating minerality. The 2004 spent a dozen years on its lees. Over the last six months or so, it has gradually begun to open up, but it is very much a wine for the cellar. Two thousand four is remembered as a vintage with record high yields. Salon (and Delamotte) did a terrific job in keeping the vines well balanced. Production was just 46,000 bottles, as opposed to the 60,000 or so that is more typical. Chef de Caves Michel Fauconnet opted for a low dosage of just 4 grams per liter. This is a tremendous showing. Jun 16, www.vinous.com, Drink 2019-2044
About the producer
Champagne Salon makes some of the region’s rarest and most collectable Champagnes. The house is dedicated to one wine – a vintage Blanc de Blancs, 100% Chardonnay entirely from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, produced only in the finest years.