2011 Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes Blanc Coume Ginestre

The Gaubys’ mixed-Grenache (but overwhelmingly Gris-variant) 2011 Coume Gineste was only bottled at the end of March, 2013 after spending its life in an Austrian foudre, and received a regimen of significant skin contact and low sulfur, all of which approaches seem to have successfully, subtly integrated the sense of tactile impingement – akin to lime zest, radish, and pineapple close to the core – that so often and distinctively characterizes Grenache Gris, as well as to preserve and integrate what in reviewing the 2008 I termed “an almost flor-like piquancy and toasted nuttiness on the nose.” (Quite possibly there is some microbiological aspect involved.) This bottlings also boasts enormously alluring and penetrating floral perfume suggesting honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley and hyacinth. A leesy, nutty undertone offers fine counterpoint to the aforementioned sizzle and incisiveness not to mention an overall sense of citric and white peach brightness that could come from Riesling and energy enough to light a room; while an oyster liquor-like brininess, nuttiness and herbaceous quality sets my tongue quivering and stimulates my salivary glands to pump overtime for a literally – not to mention, prodigiously – mouthwatering finish. Look for this amazing wine to dazzle through at least 2018. Gerard and Lionel Gauby – for much more about whose vineyards, labors, and stylistic evolution see my accounts in issues 183 and 195 – are demonstrating with their recent expansion of single-vineyard bottlings, results entirely consistent with the superb quality for which they have already become known. “From April on, we had no rain,” testifies Gerard of vintage 2012, “but also no ill-effects from hydric- or heat-stress” – other than a significant diminution of what are already an estate norm of low yields – thanks, he avers, to a now long-standing, biodynamic deep root-promoting viticultural regimen. I tasted only selectively components for 2012 Gauby reds from barrel, cask and tank last spring, but they were collectively stunning, featuring heady floral perfumes, amazingly silken textures for their youth, and a sense of levity (weighing-in –at least for the most part – under 13% alcohol) entirely consistent with density as well as depth. One need not take the Gaubys’ word that phenolic maturity was achieved early, as this is evident in the wines’ combination of ripe flavors with moderate alcohol. The 2010s here have turned out impressively and the best of them – as I forecasted in issue 195 – full of intrigue. Yet, the amazing thing is that the more generous 2011s right now upstage most of the 2010s in white as well as red, including in terms of dynamic complexity and the presence of mineral dimensions, a scenario I would never have entertained based on what I knew of these Roussillon vintages in general as opposed to what I found in the glass at this address. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800