2009 Pierre Gimonnet Cuvee Gastronome

Vivid yellow. A seductively perfumed bouquet of tangerine, pear skin, smoky lees, minerals and anise. Deeply pitched, supple orchard and citrus fruit flavors are braced by a dusty mineral quality and complemented by notes of buttery brioche and honey. The tangerine and mineral notes carry through a long, sappy finish that features a touch of gentle smokiness. Disgorged in November, 2013.

Lemon oil, almonds, white flowers and marzipan are all laced together in Gimonnet's 2009 Brut Chardonnay Cuvée Gastronome. The 2009 captures an attractive stylistic middle ground of finely-cut, chiseled Chardonnay fruit and the warmth of the year. Floral notes add an attractive element of brightness on the finish. It's hard to see the 2009 getting much better from here, but it is delicious today and should continue to drink well for a number of years. The Cuvée Gastronome is a blend of Chardonnay from four villages; Chouilly, Cuis, Cramant and Oger. Disgorged November 2013. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter.

From the Côte des Blancs grands crus Cramant, Chouilly and Oger plus the premiers Cuis and Vertus, the 2009 Cuvée Gastronomique 1er Cru Brut opens very clear on the nose indicating fully ripe (partly brown), cooked and also baked apples, ripe pears, butter, some exotic spicy and limey flavors as well as tobacco and brazil nut along with discreet yeasty flavors and a mineral touch. Full-bodied and very rich, this well structured and persistent Champagne develops an intense taste of cooked, brown apples with cinnamon but keeps its citric freshness also in the finish. I sniffed the bouquet for 15 minutes and the bouquet became more and more complex with every single minute. I was also impressed by the long lasting purity and minerality on the palate and this is why I recommend to spend more time with this excellent Champagne and to pour it into a big wine glass.