NV Jacquesson Cuvee 738

The Jacquesson’s Cuvée No. 738 is stellar. Bright, focused and finely cut, the 738 impresses for its energy and overall vibrancy. In many ways, the 738 sets the tone for the night, as it is so full of life. This is a great showing from a Champagne that consistently overdelivers relative to its peers. Dec 15, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2016-2026

The latest in the Chiques family's very successful initiative of numbered NV cuvées, this is based on 2010 with one-third reserve wine in the blend. The nose has plenty of bright chardonnay fruits, lime and lemon, green melon notes and a little spicy edge, plus plenty of stony, chalky notes too. The palate's nicely paced, delivering the same swathe of citrus on arrival, building to more savory, nutty characters as it goes. Lemon and lime sherbet flavors; acidity is crunchy and energetic. Drink now or over the next five years, longer if you like more of the toasty stuff. Jul 15, www.jamessuckling.com

Based on 2010. Dosage 2.5 g/l. Disgorged January 2013. Numbers chosen to generate differences. Some organic viticulture but mildew pressure is a problem. Very sophisticated. Already a bit of wild-flower notes here. Racy and lacy.