2013 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles

(this fruit was harvested early): Bright, pale straw-yellow. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of dried fruits, dusty stone, lavender and crushed herbs: smells juicy! Utterly primary and sappy on the palate, with strong citrus energy giving precision to the flavors of lavender and crushed stone. Stains the palate with citrus and stone flavors without leaving any impression of weight. This outstanding rocky grand cru really leaves the salivary glands quivering on the very long, scented finish.

Not much nose – just light smokiness. And masses of acidity! Some wet stoniness on the palate. This will probably get there though it is far from one of the fattest vintages. This needs a lot of time… (JR)

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselle Grand Cru, bottled under DIAM, was showing a little oxidation on the nose that shaves away mineralite and terroir expression. The palate is tangy and a little chewy on the entry with hints of marmalade and orange peel. While there is satisfying weight in the mouth, it is missing some precision at the moment. The harmony here and the tension suggest that this should develop for those with the nous to age their bottles for several years. Tasted May 2016. Nov 2016, www.robertparker.com