2012 Chablis Montmains
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains demands more coaxing on the nose than the Beauroy, with hints of white peach and subtle Muscat aromas developing in the glass. The palate is ripe and crisp on the entry, with orange peel and tangerine notes. The finish is quite closed at this stage and does not express its terroir as much as the Beauroy, although there is decent length to suggest it will repay another couple of years in bottle. I have enjoyed the Chablis from Laurent Tribut for many years and it was a pleasure to finally visit the domaine in the village of Poinchy. Married to the daughter of Rene Dauvissat, Marie Clotilde, the couple tends just under 8 hectares of vineyard conjoining the vines of Dauvissat. Where once the wines were made in Dauvissat’s cellar, they now make the wines in their own facility in the village of Poinchy, but continue the exacting standards applied in that famous cellar. These tenets include maturing the wine in used oak barrels, from Alliers, Vosges and Chatillons, in what appeared to be a slightly cramped cellar! Perhaps the association with Dauvissat has tended to overshadow the quality of Laurent’s wines in the past, but I found much to enjoy and appreciate here on their own merit. Here is a great example of barrel-aged Chablis that retains the intrinsic minerality and precision of the region. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; and through H2Vin (www.h2vin.co.uk) and Justerini & Brooks in the UK.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Bright lemon-yellow. Crystallized lemon peel, orange blossom and a chalky nuance on the slightly exotic nose. Then dense, tactile and tight, showing superb energy and inner-mouth floral lift to the pungent flavors of grapefruit pith and powdered chalk. The penetrating, uncompromising, slowly building finish stains the palate with grapefruit zest. In its combination of roundness and vibrant acidity, this is a perfect synthesis of the Beauroy and Cote de Lechet. I would not be surprised if this outstanding premier cru needed eight to ten years to reach its peak.
(tasted from cuve): Pale color. Complex, soil-driven nose combines ginger, quinine, minerals, menthol and wild herbs. Then round, ripe and rich, with a fine-grained silky texture that comes as a surprise following the bracing nose. Doesn't have quite the mid-palate cut of the Beauroy but this boasts more palate presence. Finishes with palate-staining lemon and mineral flavors.