2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis

The 2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic maturity. Dark and dense on the palate, the 2010 remains massively tannic in feel, though. Tasting the 2010 next to the current releases shows the style prevalent at the time that favored more overt fruit, greater extraction and heavier oak signatures. Black cherry, espresso, chocolate, menthol and dried flowers all develop as the 2010 opens up with time in the glass. This is dark, virile and powerful in style; I would wait a few years, as it is going through a phase of closure today.

Barolo. Stamped ‘sibi et paucis’: a small quantity of Sandrone’s Barolo bottlings are kept and cellared and released 10 years later, or as the Sandrone website states: ‘sibi et paucis is the desire to free Nebbiolo's innate resistance to time … [it] is the result of the care we take with our wines as these privileged bottles mature in our cellar.’ Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. Elegant and generous on the nose at the same time. Just the faintest touch of undergrowth but really at the beginning of its evolution. The undergrowth lifts with aeration. Still very compact on the palate and with near-perfect balance between succulent acidity, compact red fruit and sculpted, long tannins. (WS)

The single-vineyard 2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis speaks in confident tones at high volumes. First produced in 1985, Cannubi Boschis is among the first single vineyard cru expressions made in Barolo. Thirty-five-year-old vines enjoy south and southeast exposures at 250 meters above sea level. The long 2010 growing season has favored optimal tannin ripeness and fine complexity on the bouquet. This is one of the standout wines of this celebrated vintage. It is well worth putting this wine at the back of your cellar where it will be untouched for years. Drink: 2017-2030. Importer: Vintus Wines, www.vintuswines.com