2012 Chevalier Montrachet

The 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from 2.5 hectares of vine, equivalent to one-third of the surface area. It has a generous bouquet with scents of lime flower and cold stone, hints of chestnut on the background. The palate is well-balanced with a fine line of acidity. This is well-balanced, very expressive with fine tension on the finish and a chalky aftertaste. Drink now-2030. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

More immediate lemon freshness than on the Corton-Charlemagne but still a light oak spice. Richer and more intense on the mid palate. Power and length and lovely raciness. Very long. (JH)

(from a yield of just 27 hectoliters per hectare, according to Prost): Slightly cloudy pale yellow. Cool, brisk aromas of crushed rock, spices, fresh herbs and menthol. Concentrated, fine-grained and subtly sweet, with excellent energy to its lime and rocky flavors. Finishes crisp, firm and long, in need of more elevage. Just 10% new oak here. Prost told me he rolled the barrels in early April.