2006 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles

This superb wine should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Jadot’s 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles immediately strikes one as remarkable restrained coming on the heels of their Batard. But the full range of complexity and subtlety on display here then begins to sink in. Hazelnut-, quince-, and yellow plum-filled pastry sauced with lime cream and garnished with flowers are underlain by an oceanic depth of brine, chalk and iodine suggestions. Richness allied with clarity and brightness are the themes as this builds on the palate to a finish of amazingly penetrating citricity yet elegance and subtle minerality whose resonance reminds me of a shell held up to one’s ear: the roar of Chevalier-Montrachet persists, even when the volume is a whisper. Surely this is also one white Burgundy you could confidently cellar for well more than a decade. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Full yellow. Broad, deep and initially quite closed on the nose, this opened to show white peach, crushed stone, and fresh hazelnut and almond. Then powerful, vibrant and palate-staining, with terrific cut to the flavors of white peach, lemon, liquid stone and white flowers. Wonderfully tactile wine with an almost painful intensity. Finishes with superb cut and length. This has only 3.8 grams of acidity yet conveys outstanding balance and verve. "If we had allowed the malolactic fermentation to finish, the wine would have ended up with less than three grams of acid," Lardiere observed. A great 2006.

As would be expected, a distinctly more elegant nose of airy white flower, subtle spice, lemon peel and cool green fruit is in keeping with the refined, pure, dry and strikingly precise medium-full flavors that possess an almost pungent minerality on the almond and fennel suffused finish that seems to go on and on without end. This is a wine of harmony, grace, style and classy. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jul01,2008.