1989 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles

Less than 100 cases are made of the Chevalier-Montrachet-Les Demoiselles, which was the tightest, most backward wine I tasted from Jadot. Even more unevolved than the Montrachet, it needs 5-10 years of cellaring and should last for 20-30 years. It is absolutely magnificent with its subtle yet authoritative bouquet of minerals and super-ripe fruit. In the mouth, there is high acidity, formidable depth, and a texture that is oh, so chewy. It is the essence of Chardonnay. One can imagine what magical drinking it should provide in the next century. Gagey considers the 1989 vintage to be one of the three best years of the decade, comparable to 1985 and 1986. Jadot's white burgundies are among the slowest to evolve because in low acid years the malolactic fermentation is blocked to give the wines more aging potential. Not surprisingly, the 1989s are more backward, with slightly higher natural acidities than found among other white burgundies in the Cote d'Or. For that, as well as other reasons, Jadot's finest premiers and grands crus have 15-20 years of aging potential in 1989. The firm of Louis Jadot (they also own 115 acres of top vineyards), is probably the best run negociant firm in Burgundy. While the Jadot wines have always been excellent, in the last several years the extraordinary quality of the white wines has been matched by even more fabulous red wines. Next year I will report on the 1990 red burgundies, but readers might want to make a mental note that Louis Jadot's 1990s are of such a quality level that they are comparable to the wines from domaines such as Romanee-Conti and Leroy. This deserved achievement could not have been earned by a finer gentleman than Andre Gagey, who has run this firm with admirable conscientiousness and meticulousness for decades. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY.