2005 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees

A touch of wood influence combines with the superbly complex and remarkably primary deep black fruit nose that is positively kaleidoscopic in its range of spices that continue onto the super rich, even opulent flavors that ooze dry extract yet this tightens up instantly on the finish and becomes borderline austere. There is real muscle and punch here and while the nose is ultra refined, the flavor profile runs toward the robust. Incredibly impressive potential but this is clearly a wine for the patient.

Saturated bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, minerals, meat and smoke. Large-scaled and impressively dense, with superb energy to the dark fruit, licorice, mineral, spice and game flavors. The explosive finish is like an avalanche over the palate, driving out everything in its wake. Substantial ripe tannins are hidden by complex finishing flavors of red fruits, smoked meat and leather. For all its soil-driven wildness, this sappy, extract-rich wine is quite pristine. Should be a monumental bottle by 2020.

The 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees has the polish, refinement, creaminess of texture and charm that the Parantoux lacked. Sweet black raspberry, nut paste, and butter-creme dominate in the nose and mouth, and the counterpoint of faintly caramelized fruit, toasted nuts, and grilled meat with diverse mineral expressions and juicy freshness of black raspberry and pomegranate is captivating. This long, polished wine should be given 8-10 years of development by which time a direct comparison with the presently more austere and high-strung Parantoux should be a rare treat. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.