1998 Pommery Cuvee Louise

The estate’s 1998 Brut Cuvee Louise is a linear, focused wine endowed with layers of smoke, flowers, minerals and white fruit that come together with impressive length and clarity. This deceptively mid-weight wine closes with a long, elegant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This large, venerable estate makes a wide range of wines, the best of which is the Cuvee Louise. The estate does not disclose disgorgement dates, but in general the wines receive six to nine months on the cork prior to be being released. Importer: Vranken Pommery America, New York, NY; tel. (212) 921-1215

Lively lemon colour. Very racy, refreshing with attractive lemon scents. Some real creaminess and integration. Very compact, even if not desperately fine in terms of texture. Punchy and zesty. (JR)

(L60679) Light gold. Yellow plum and peach nectar on the nose, plus lower tones of nuts, smoke and sweet butter. Rich, supple and ripe on the palate, showing a vaguely exotic aspect to its ripe, honeyed peach and pear flavors. Finishes full and open-knit, with a sweet yeasty tone. I'd drink this over the next four or five years.