NV Marie Courtin Eloquance

Dominique Moreau’s NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Eloquence D0313ND represents one of those rare Chardonnays from the Cotes des Bar’s Kimmeridgian, and it certainly lives up to my imagination and then some of what the grape and soil of Chablis can generate at this slightly higher latitude and in champagnized form. Scents and juicy, tart-edged abundance of apple, green rhubarb, papaya and musky rose radish make for a wine of almost spine-tingling invigoration, yet whose combination of lees-influence and intentionally low-pressure mousse engender a sense of polish and delicacy. A subtle suffusion of oyster liquor serves for salivary stimulation in a long finish that will have you shaking your head in intrigue and delight. Given the low sulfur approach taken here and my lack of experience with older bottles, I can’t prognosticate beyond urging you to experience this wine without fail over the next 12-18 months. Dominique Moreau created her estate – named for a grandmother – in 2005, and is one of the increasingly numerous growers fluently witnessing to the potential of the Cotes des Bar’s Kimmeridgian belt by growing her fruit biodynamically and showcasing it in vintage- and vineyard-specific bottlings vinified with minimal sulfur (usually a smidgeon each in the press and at bottling), and typically finished without dosage. A horrendous June storm (on the heels of a hail-laden predecessor days earlier) rendered it impossible this year for me to spend time with her in her vineyards, but fortunately the bottles she had set out for me to taste were still chilly despite loss of power, and they stole the show even from the outdoor natural drama. Lot numbers on Marie Courtin labels refer to the vintage in question; followed by the month and year of disgorgement; then reference to dosage (or rather, in most instances at this address, its absence). Incidentally, the prevalence of “non-vintage” yet single vintage-dedicated bottlings especially among young growers in the Aube arises from their choosing – or, in many cases, needing for financial reasons – to disgorge the wines too soon to qualify under Champagne regulations for official “vintage” status. Thomas Calder Selections, Paris (with various importers); fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29, importers include Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and Joli Vin, Emeryville, CA; tel. (415) 308-2460

The NV (2007) Extra Brut Eloquence is impressive. This is a gorgeous Champagne endowed with extraordinary richness and tons of personality. Waves of fruit flow from this effortless, powerful wine, saturating the palate with notable intensity. A final burst of Chardonnay fruit informs the finish. As great as the Eloquence is ( and it is great) it will be even better in another year or two. Eloquence is 100% Chardonnay from a vineyard in Polisot. The wine was vinified and aged in neutral French oak barrels. It is a stunner of a wine. This is Lot# EL07D071ND. Disgorged July 2011. This is a breathtaking set of wines from proprietor Dominique Moreau. Biodynamic farming and non-interventionalist winemaking are the rule. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and are bottled with no dosage. I followed the open bottles in my refrigerator for several days, during which the wines seemed to get better and better. I can’t say enough good things about these hand-made, artisan Champagnes. If Moreau keeps making wines like these she will soon be one of the superstars of Champagne. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fabulous wines. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Potomac Selections, Inc., Landover, MD; tel. (301) 583-8844