2008 Chablis Mont de Milieu

Scents of freesia, white peach, mint, and lemon render the Billaud-Simon 2008 Chablis Mont-de-Milieu metaphorically cooling yet anything but aloof. On the palate, salt, chalk dust, and herbs suffuse an amalgam of lemon and grapefruit. Hints of struck flint as well as herbal pungency and tightness point to a touch of reduction, but this finishes with formidable grip and hints of fruit pit bitterness added to its mineral elements. I would anticipate this wine opening up over the next several years in bottle and being worth following until at least age 5-6. Bernard Billaud agreed this year to show me his young grand crus in advance of their anticipated May or June bottling, even though they were on their finings. In addition, I was able to have my first taste of his 2007 grand crus. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Subtle, pure aromas of nectarine, white flowers, minerals and iodine. Thick yet light on its feet, with the saline, iodiney character following through on the palate. A distinctly saline, extract-rich wine that seems clearly better than the 2009. Finishes chewy and long, with complex notes of peach, minerals and flowers. An excellent showing.