2004 Vosne Romanee Beaumonts

(Grivot now ages his premier crus in 40% new oak and the grand crus in 80% new barrels) Good medium red. Aromas of black plum and violet lifted by spices. Rich and seamless, with good lift and definition to the plum and floral flavors. Finishes with broad, palate-dusting tannins and lovely aromatic persistence. Very sexy already. I asked Grivot why he uses a good 20% more new oak than he did ten years ago. "Seduction," he responded succinctly, adding that he does not use "powerful" oak.

Bright, full red. Dark fruits and a minty nuance on the rather unforthcoming nose. Sweet and deep but not yet showing as much complexity or precision of flavor as the Boudots. But this is rich and full, finishing with serious but ripe tannins and lovely lingering sweetness. This needs more elevage and should make a suave bottle.

Here there is a lovely sleekness and grace accentuated by the evident minerality and a cooler, almost reserved character. In particular, the elegance and superb purity of the nose with its spicy and layered black fruit aromas merge seamlessly into supple, silky and precise flavors that possess outstanding finishing intensity though the finish is youthfully austere rather than generous and friendly. I find the Beaux-Monts to be better balanced and it should age well but be accessible young. Classy juice. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan01,2007.