2001 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

The 2001 Brut Clos des Goisses has begun to take on attractive early tertiary nuances. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2001 has gorgeous depth but not quite the finesse of the very best years. Even with all of the intense fruit and rich, palate-staining finish, some slightly rough edges remain. Dried apricots, spices, licorice, sweet herbs and tobacco add elements of exoticism on the finish. A spell of cold weather and rain during the harvest appears to have marked the 2001. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow, although I don’t think it will reach the heights of the 2002. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2041. I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(a similar blend to the 2002; disgorged June, 2011): Bright yellow-gold. Musky orchard fruit and citrus pith aromas are complicated by notes of chamomile and anise. Fresh orange and pear flavors show surprising concentration for the vintage, becoming spicier and smokier with air. Smooth and sappy on the finish, with the pear and spice notes repeating. This open-knit, complex Champagne is already drinking well but has the balance to reward more patience. This bottling was released in tandem with the 2002, by the way.

The mirror image of the rich 2002 released at the same time: all austerity and minerality and sharp edges, but really rather admirable and fine. Very marked acidity and refreshment and I could imagine this continuing to gain flesh and interest in bottle, though it will never have enormous palate weight. Rivals Vilmart's Coeur de Cuvée as the most successful 2001 champagne I have ever tasted. This was a very difficult year. Two thirds Pinot Noir, one third Chardonnay. Well done! (JR)