1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Buying options
Tasting notes
The bright golden yellow 1998 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut is expressive and noble on opening, with notes of butterscotch, praline, white chocolate, cherry liqueur, and preserved apricot. Pure and ripe on the palate, it has an umami-like richness and is juicy with savory orange oil and grapefruit pith. It has a silky, supple mouthfeel with a refined mousse and a long finish, and it’s maturing wonderfully. Full-bodied, it’s an elegant wine but retains the characteristic power and length of this cuvée a fantastic finish. Saline and earthy, I might prefer to enjoy this over the next few years, but it will have a lot of life. Drink 2023-2033. Raised with cork not crown, it was disgorged in March 2023, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage. Approximately 100 bottles will be released.
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(disgorged April, 2008) Bright yellow-gold with a slow stream of tiny bubbles. Expressive aromas of orange rind, pear, marzipan, lemon thyme and toasted bread, plus a hint of brown butter. Very rich and palate-coating, offering sweet orchard and pit fruit flavors and complicating notes of bitter citrus pith and smoky minerals. Quite open, with sexy floral and spice qualities on the long, sweet, nutty finish. I've little doubt that this Champagne will continue to age for years to come but there's plenty going on right now to warrant broaching a bottle if you have more than one.
Very rich Bollinger sort of weighty nose. There was a slight hint of mushrooms and then notably deep flavour on the palate. Charles Philipponnat described the wine as gamey. It was enormously impressive when served – so fresh and lovely – although tasting it after the 1992 and 1989 it seemed almost callow! (JR)
40% barrel fermented. The 1999 vintage is already in circulation, whilst the 1998 has just been released – à la Krug. Very dense and layered. Very obviously oaked. A strong statement. Firm. Very slightly oxidised. Intellectual. Dense. Very old white burgundy! (JR)
About the producer
Champagne Philipponnat, an historic family estate that has been cultivating the region for an extraordinary 500 years, has been producing Champagne on the Clos des Goisses site since 1935. Charles Philipponnat is currently at the helm of the Champagne House.