1996 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

Disgorged 2010 (not a late disgorgement). Deep gold and pungent with a suggestion of green fruit and with what could well be interpreted as an element of light oxidation. No malo but again, very marked by the high acidity of 1996 which should in theory have helped this usually-super-ripe wine. Charles Philipponnat reported that in its youth, this wine had an element of honey, and claimed the light note of oxidation 'added to the complexity'. Apparently this wine had the highest malic acid ever – 6 g/l – and, according to him, 'it should be undrinkable!' Distinct notes of Marmite yeast extract. Bit of a Marmite wine overall. (JR)

Disgorged 2011 with a dosage of 4.25 g/l. No malolactic conversion, as usual for this wine. Pale gold and rich in glorious apricot and orange fruit, reminding me of the fougasse made with orange flower water that I used to love in the south of France but haven't tasted for many years. Charles Philipponnat says this wine has taken 20 years to become balanced because the acidity was so high. Now there is wonderful harmony between the ripe fruit – I might even say mango – and the still super-crisp fresh acidity. There is an oxidative quality to it that makes me think of Palo Cortado sherry in its intensity and complex character but it is not at all oxidised. Gorgeous counterpoint of rich breadth and arrow-like freshness. Now more a wine than a champagne though it still has delicate mousse. (JH)

50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay. Disgorged January 2010. Dosage 4.5 g/l. Deep straw. One of the most mature noses in this collection of 1996s. Almost cheesy. Very dry finish after lots of opulence. Not that fizzy. Big and bold and with enough weight to counteract the (very considerable) acidity. Really at peak. Really builds on the finish. A champagne to drink with a meat course? (JR)