1990 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
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Tasting notes
The 1990 Clos des Goisses is shockingly vibrant for a wine of its age. Then again, that's Goisses. Distinctly Riesling-inflected, mineral notes meld into mint, graphite and stone fruits in an explosive, viscerally thrilling Clos des Goisses that brings this flight to a rousing finish. Still a baby, the 1990 will reward those lucky enough to own it with decades of sublime drinking. Disgorged January 2010.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Disgorged May 2013. Along with the 2000, this vintage has softer acidity (relatively speaking) than the 2002 and the more typical ripeness of fruit from this walled vineyard. Magificently complex aromas and flavours including honey, citrus, delicate spice and brioche and shortbread. The hallmarks are elegance and youthfulness. It was a perfect match (to my surprise) with the pigeon. (JH)
The 1990 Clos des Goisses was in great shape this night, with superb depth and plenty of warm, oxidative complexity. Showing pretty much at peak, it is hard to see the 1990 improving from here, but it has also maintained more than enough freshness to make me think it will continue to drink splendidly for years. What a gorgeous Champagne the 1990 is.
Big and sweet and powerful. Lemon sherbet. Long. Still powerful and vibrant. Very rich – almost sweet – but livelier than the 1989. (JR)
About the producer
Champagne Philipponnat, an historic family estate that has been cultivating the region for an extraordinary 500 years, has been producing Champagne on the Clos des Goisses site since 1935. Charles Philipponnat is currently at the helm of the Champagne House.