1989 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
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Tasting notes
Interestingly, the 1989 Clos des Goisses (magnum) is not too different in style from the 1990, although the magnum format and late disgorgement surely play roles in that. Here, too, the overall impression is one of crystalline purity, power and energy. This is another wine with a long and distinguished future ahead of it. Disgorged January 2010.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Golden straw. Heady. Very, very rich and truffley. Extremely opulent, though without the depth of the 1990, with which it is inevitably compared. (JR)
Fine mousse. Pungent, soil-inflected aromas of smoke, truffle, flint, honeysuckle and lime. Minerally, smoky and flinty notes in the mouth, with plenty of ripe pineappley fruit. Rather gentle in the middle, but firm acids and solid mineral character give this real bite on the back end. Finishes with a whiplash of flavor. Quite fresh for '89. But not quite up to the quality of the '88, which was unfolding spectacularly and merited a solid 93 on my last tasting.
About the producer
Champagne Philipponnat, an historic family estate that has been cultivating the region for an extraordinary 500 years, has been producing Champagne on the Clos des Goisses site since 1935. Charles Philipponnat is currently at the helm of the Champagne House.