2007 Lirac Reine des Bois

The outrageously superb 2007 Lirac La Reine des Bois (equal parts Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah) may be the finest wine Delorme has yet made. Its dense purple color is accompanied by a sumptuous perfume of black fruits, licorice, earth, and pepper. The fruit quality is deep, textured, and pure, and the 35-second finish is superb. This knock-out wine should drink well for 7-8 years. Winemaker and owner Christophe Delorme and his brother, Fabrice, have made Domaine de la Mordoree one of the bright, shining estates of Chateauneuf du Pape. Readers should definitely check out this property’s white wines, especially the Cotes du Rhones and Liracs, as well as the gorgeous red Liracs. Even the bargain-priced, well-made wines called Naissance, which include a red as well as a rose vin de pays, are worth seeking out. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

The 2007 Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois offers up stunning cassis and blackberry fruit, earth, licorice and stony aromas that lead into a balanced, pure palate. Very dense and concentrated, this has a smooth, rich texture, stunning fruit and a tannic long finish. Give this a couple years to integrate its structure and then drink over the following 15 to 20 years.

40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre Real life and fully ripe fruit though extremely tough and dry on the finish. Firm charcoal flavours. The fruit will probably eventually dominate those tannins. I certainly hope so... (JR)