2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre
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Tasting notes
Palish yellow-gold. Wonderfully vibrant aromas of citrus peel, white flowers and dusty stone, plus a sexy hint of truffle. Dense, juicy and extremely young yet already delicious owing to its silky texture. Great subtle complexity to its flavors of orange zest, anise and tactile saline minerality. The rising, sappy finish stains the palate and excites the taste buds with orange-y high tones. Utterly classic Chablis yet not particularly austere today. Really bulletproof fruit and grain here! Shows a slightly candied quality similar to the '14, but here it's more soft citrus than stone fruits. This was Isabelle Raveneau's wedding wine two years ago but it also has the energy and balance to improve and deepen in the cellar for many years. (12.62% alcohol; 3.31 pH; 3.7 g/l acidity)
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Notes of oatmeal, waxy citrus rind, crisp yellow apples and white flowers introduce the 2010 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional wine that has begun to acquire some supplemental texture with bottle age while remaining lively and precise, concluding with an elegantly chalky finish. The 2010 isn't as powerful as the brooding 2012 served alongside, nor is it as tensile and incisive as the 2014, but it is on a similar qualitative level and numbers among the vintage's high points.
The 2010 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from one of Raveneau’s strongest vineyards, and it does not disappoint. The bouquet is steely and aloof at first, then suddenly turns more crystalline, bearing a strong marine influence with hints of kelp and sea spray. The balanced, penetrating palate displays a perfect line of acidity. Everything is in the right place here, culminating in what I wrote down as a “rocky” finish. Dare I say that this is about as good as Chablis can get?
Green apples and tight. Tense and limpid. But awfully young. (JR)