2002 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

Healthy bright yellow. Classic brothy, crushed-stone Chablis nose, with lively hints of ripe citrus fruits and flowers. Wonderfully dense and tactile yet weightless, showing a sexy creaminess in the mid-palate for such a mineral-driven wine. An element of candied yellow fruits emerged with air, with a repeating floral note providing lift. Beautifully balanced, vibrant and long, finishing tactile and classically dry but not at all austere. A bit like the 2010 in style.

The 2002 Chablis Montée de Tonerre 1er Cru is a little closed at first, then introduces quirky scents of papaya and lemon curd; suggestions of aniseed develop with time. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a fine line of acidity and wonderful balance, though it becomes more orthodox towards the crushed flint and marine-tinged finish. I admire the brashness and playfulness of the aromatics matched with the more serious nature of the palate – somehow they fit together. Excellent.

Very austere but pure and crisp and juicy and fresh. Green and razor sharp. (JR)