1990 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

Pink blush color not unlike a rosé Champagne. Raveneau-typical mature nose combines brothy meaty salinity, grilled hazelnut, brown butter and a yeasty nuance. Dense, thick and rather wild, showing brown butter and caramel notes and just enough harmonious acidity to leaven its volume. Finishes round and long, and not overly sweet, with lingering saline character. Isabelle Raveneau told me that she and father Bernard "have never been too high on this vintage," and that this bottle is typical. I pulled another from my own cellar in May and it also showed a touch of yeasty complexity on the nose. While rich and round, it has lost its tightly coiled spring and is beyond its fruit stage. The finish shows an element of sweetness as well as a slightly tannic impression. Still fun, but drink up!