2009 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

The 2009 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre comes across as beautifully balanced. It is one of the brightest wines in this lineup of 2009s. A vein of smokiness is layered into expressive peaches and white flowers on the deep finish. The Montee de Tonnerre was aged 25% in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Pale, bright yellow. Subtle citrus scents complicated by silex and smoked bacon. Silky-sweet and fine-grained but a bit youthfully imploded today. More taut than the Mont de Milieu, with strong dusty minerality giving the finish an austere quality. But the acidity here is ripe and nicely integrated. This very promising wine will put on weight as it evolves in bottle over the next six to eight years.

Perfumed, opulent fruit. Refreshing and stylish with a sharp slate edge and long finish. Tremendous class, very exciting. (RH)