2008 Cotes de Nuits Villages

The Bachelet 2008 Cotes de Nuits-Villages offers scents of cedar, beef stock, and fresh blackberry that lend vivacity and a hint of tartness when it hits the palate. Firmer in texture and more adamantly mineral than the corresponding Bourgogne, this almost certainly has greater potential over the next 5-7 years, but lacks that wine’s youthful charm. Unsurprisingly, in Bachelet’s tiny, shallow, and frigid cellar, his 2008s did not complete malo until September. They were in barrel about to be prepped for bottling, when I visited him in late February, making it the ideal time in his view for tasting them. (And Bachelet’s tiny volume makes it relatively easy to accurately approximate the final blend of any wine.) He has always been adamantly opposed to showing his wines for 18-24 months after they are bottled, insisting that in his experience they always suffer in comparison with their performance from barrel as well as with how they will taste 3-4 years after bottling. He did relent and let me taste one 2007 from bottle during my visit, and it was impressive. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

Full ruby-red. Blackberry, minerals and smoky oak on the nose. The palate offers good verve and definition to the supple flavors of blackberry and licorice. Not a thick wine but energetic and very nicely balanced, and refined for its appellation. Finishes with noteworthy lift and floral length, conveying a strong impression of limestone. My range may be shortchanging this wine. (Incidentally, Bachelet's Bourgogne had lovely fruit and was quite promising.)

From ‘a marvellous parcel’ above Brochon. Very lovely and rich and round with real energy. Very flattering and great line. Very pure, great balance and purity. GV? (JR)