2004 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Rose

(45% pinot noir, 22% of which was still red wine, 31% chardonnay and 24% pinot meunier; aged on its lees for seven years and dosed at 5 g/l): Vivid orange-pink color. Powerful black raspberry, cherry and rose aromas are complemented by buttered toast and allspice. Smoky, penetrating dark berry and blood orange flavors are given lift and spine by tangy acidity, picking up a toasty nuance with air. Finishes smooth, spicy and long, with a sexy floral nuance and a touch of bitter cherry.

Moet’s deeply salmon-colored 2004 Brut Rose Grand Vintage incorporates 24% Meunier and 45% Pinot Noir of which nearly a quarter was red wine. A nose of fresh red raspberry and fennel leads to a sappy, snappy, marzipan-tinged palate impression whose supportive sweetness led me to imagine a higher dosage than the mere five grams that are present; but then, this wine’s luscious sense of vivid and ripe red fruit fits the generous and warm nature of its vintage. While not especially complex – though perhaps a year or two more in bottle will lend depth – this is nonetheless impeccably balanced and irresistibly appetizing. Imported by Moet Hennessy, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Much more typical of the year, 2004 Brut Grand Vintage Rosé is pure chalk, rhubarb, pomegranate and rose petals. The flavors possess striking delineation and nuance in a style that is all about tension. I very much like the sense of energy here. Stylistically, the Rosé is quite a bit more focused than the Blanc in 2004, with fewer oxidative overtones and plenty of drive. This is a hugely appealing Champagne from Moët Chandon.