1998 Vilmart Cuvee Creation

The 1998 Cuvée Création is 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir from 40 year old vines. Here, the all of the juice is used (as opposed to the Coeur de Cuvée) but the wine is given a longer period of bottle age. The Chardonnay character is particularly evident in this wine, as tropical fruit, mango, passion fruit, earthiness and crushed rock nuances waft from the glass. Soft notes of salinity resonate on the long finish.While most growers would be thrilled to have the Creation, here it comes across as a bit of an orphan. As outstanding as this wine can be, it doesn't quite have the personality of the estate's other top wines. Not surprisingly, Champs told me 2000 will be the last vintage of this wine, as he feels he has too many different wines in his line-up. This is the November 2007 disgorgement.

The 1998 Cuvee Creation is 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir from 40 year old vines. Here, all of the juice is used (as opposed to the Coeur de Cuvee) but the wine is given a longer period of bottle age. The Chardonnay character is particularly evident in this wine, as tropical fruit, mango, passion fruit, earthiness and crushed rock nuances waft from the glass. Soft notes of salinity resonate on the long finish. While most growers would be thrilled to have the Creation, here it comes across as a bit of an orphan. As outstanding as this wine can be, it doesn’t quite have the personality of the estate’s other top wines. Not surprisingly, Champs told me 2000 will be the last vintage of this wine, as he feels he has too many different wines in his line-up. This is the November, 2007 disgorgement. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the region’s most distinctive Champagnes. The Vilmart wines are characterized by an extreme sense of elegance, clarity and definition. The domaine’s eleven hectares of vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Meunier, with vine ages ranging from 35 to 55 years, clearly towards the older side of the spectrum in the region. Champs prefers oak aging for his wines. The entry-level wines are aged in cask, while the top selections spend time in smaller French oak barrels. Readers should note that the entry-level NV is available on a very limited basis in the US, and I was not able to taste it for this article. Therefore, this range begins with the Grand Cellier, which represents a significantly higher level than the straight NV. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Medium yellow. Intensely smoky, energetic bouquet evokes ripe peach, honeyed pear, buttered toast and a wild cherry skin quality. Round and fleshy, offering deep but precise apple and pear flavors and bracing citrus zest bite. Really expands across the palate while maintaining energy and focus.