2005 Leoville Poyferre

The 2005 Château Léoville Poyferré isn't the most powerful and opulent vintage of Poyferré, and while I think it checks in behind the 2000 and 2009 and 2010, it's nevertheless a beautiful, classic Poyferré relying more on finesse and elegance than overt power. That's not to say it's lightweight, and this medium to full-bodied, concentrated Saint-Julien offers terrific depth in its ripe currants, cherry jam, graphite, spring flower, and leafy tobacco-like aromas and flavors. Easily in its prime drink window, it has wonderful fruit, a fine thread of both tannins and acidity, and outstanding length. It will continue to drink brilliantly for two decades.

Clearly speaks of the character and success of the vintage, just so coiled and ready to spring with a few hours in a carafe or in the glass. Unrolls and inches forward, a perfectly controlled, well-judged mix of textured, brambled berry fruits alongside tight juicy blackcurrant, liqourice and chocolate. Touches of smoked cedar also, still at the start of the drinking plateau at 16 years old, no need to open quite yet but this is superlative, seductive stuff. First year with Didier Thomann as cellar master. 80% new oak.