2002 Dom Perignon

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had never tasted anything like it. Two thousand-two was a year marked by extreme ripeness in the Chardonnays, and that opulence has always been a big part of the wine's profile. Today, what strikes me most about the 2002 is its timelessness. That youthful opulence remains, yet the 2002 is still vibrant, almost shocking in its freshness. Apricot, ripe peach, tangerine oil, butter and dried flowers all build towards a captivating crescendo of aromas and flavors that saturates the finish. Readers can look forward to another two decades of exceptional drinking.

Going large now, this is methuselah number 40 out of 200, and it certainly looks the part. 2002 ranks alongside 2008 when it comes to the best vintages of the decade, but in this large format it's still closed and a little reserved. 2002 juxtaposes restraint and latent generosity above all - a wonderful enigma in every way. Ironically it was well-timed rainfall at the end of August, and a little thereafter, which sealed the deal with this vintage. Geoffroy describes this as ‘Montrachet with a little added CO2’.

Minerality essence, citrus, tropical fruit, floral, honeysuckle and toast aromas prepare you for the complex, concentrated, sweet yellow fruit and stone filled palate. Creamy, but not as flashy, opulent or open as the 1996 was at the same stage. There seems to be more structure and minerality to the 2002. This needs at least a few years or longer to come together.