2010 Crozes Hermitage Le Clos

Dominated by its minerality with moderate tannins, the 2010 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is a sleeper of the vintage. Last year from barrel, this offering revealed high acidity and some reduction, but it is now performing on all cylinders. While not significantly superior to the charming 2011, the 2010 is a ripe, dense, full-bodied Crozes offering sweet notes of black currants, black cherries, licorice, smoke and an enticing minerality running through the flavor profile. This full-bodied red is capable of lasting 12-15+ years. Over the last 10-15 years, Delas Freres, which had muddled along with no great distinction for many years, has hit full stride under the ownership of the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm and the management of Jacques Grange, who continues to push the envelope of quality for both the Northern and Southern Rhone selections. The top single vineyard wines are world class in every sense, often flirting with perfection. Moreover, readers should realize this is also an impressive source for value. Delas’s top St.-Joseph cuvee comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the small commune of St.-Jean de Muzols. The Delas firm owns 25 acres in Hermitage from which they make a basic cuvee, called Domaine des Tourettes, and, in the greatest vintages, a luxury cuvee, Les Bessards, which comes entirely from the great lieu-dit of the same name. Delas has long had a reputation for making outstanding Condrieu, of which he makes two cuvees. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Inky purple. Reduced and slow to open, reluctantly giving up aromas of candied dark fruits, violet and smoky herbs. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit flavors pick up mocha and candied licorice qualities with air, along with a touch of cracked pepper. Finishes firm and focused, with lingering smokiness and dusty tannic grip.

Dominated by its minerality with moderate tannins, the 2010 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is a sleeper of the vintage. Last year from barrel, this offering revealed high acidity and some reduction, but it is now performing on all cylinders. While not significantly superior to the charming 2011, the 2010 is a ripe, dense, full-bodied Crozes offering sweet notes of black currants, black cherries, licorice, smoke and an enticing minerality running through the flavor profile. This full-bodied red is capable of lasting 12-15+ years. Dec 2012, www.robertparker.com