1999 Pommery

The 1999 Brut Grand Cru is made in a firm, unyielding style with the structural components dominating over the fruit. Pretty notes of apricots and pears emerge over time. There appears to be good density, and this bottling may eventually merit a higher score but today it is rather monolithic. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. This large, venerable estate makes a wide range of wines, the best of which is the Cuvee Louise. The estate does not disclose disgorgement dates, but in general the wines receive six to nine months on the cork prior to be being released. Importer: Vranken Pommery America, New York, NY; tel. (212) 921-1215

Bright yellow with a steady bead. Yeasty lemon and pear aromas are underscored by chalky minerals and smoky floral notes. Firm and focused, with juicy orchard fruit flavors and a bitter jolt of citrus pith on the back. Gained flesh and sweetness with air while maintaining nervy cut and precision.