2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

The brilliant 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a sexy-styled wine, especially for this structured, masculine, and somewhat restrained and backward vintage. This is full-bodied opulence with sweet tannins, low to moderate acidity, and gorgeous levels of plum, fig, black currant, and sweet cherry fruit intermixed with some smoked meat and lavender. This is a beauty of layered opulence and luscious texture. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. This is an estate to take notice of, as recent evaluations in this guide have certainly made abundantly clear. This is another great example of young emerging newcomers, in this case Aime and Michel Arnaud, doing all the right things to turn out some impressive wines. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

Dark ruby. Intensely spicy aromas of vibrant strawberry and raspberry, underscored by cinnamon and allspice; this smells like an elegant Burgundy. Very sweet but sharply focused on the palate, with mineral-laced red berry and cherry flavors and an intriguing licorice quality building through the finish. A fascinating and very suave wine with impressive balance and persistence.