2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes
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From a hot, yet classic southern Rhône vintage, the 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is a sexy, exuberant, undeniably sumptuous red that has soaring aromatics of black raspberries, blackberries, graphite, lead pencil shavings, licorice, and a hint of spring flowers. Still youthful, fresh, and lively, with full-bodied richness and a stacked mid-palate, it’s one of the finest wines in the vintage and can be enjoyed any time over the coming 10-15 years, if not longer.
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(50% grenache, 40% mourvedre and 10% syrah, from vines that reportedly are over 50 years of age, with some over a century old): Opaque purple. Black and blue fruits on the nose, with vanilla, anise and violet notes adding complexity. Lush, palate-staining blackberry and boysenberry flavors show excellent depth and are lifted by a bright, spicy quality. Echoes the anise and vanilla notes on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity. I underestimated this wine last year.
The most limited cuvee (350 cases) is the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah from 50-100 year old vines located in the northern sector of the appellation). Its opaque purple color is accompanied by a gorgeous perfume of graphite, truffles, damp earth, cassis, kirsch, licorice and spice box. Despite the fact that it sees a lot of new oak, it reveals no evidence of wood. The fruit dominates in this quintessential, classic, full-bodied, powerful, massive as well as surprisingly pure and elegant Chateauneuf du Pape. Unlike most examples, the precociousness and suppleness of the 2009 vintage have given this wine a more forward appeal, although it still needs 2-3 years of cellaring. Drink it over the following 25-30 years. Don’t miss the following “Best Buys” reviewed in several previous issues: Alain Jaume 2010 Cotes du Rhone Haut de Brune (87), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (88), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Champauvins (89), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Reserve Blanc (89), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (91), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Rose (86), Grand Veneur 2009 Lirac Clos de Sixte (91), and Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc de Viognier (89). Credit Christophe and Sebastian Jaume for making this one of the most impeccably run estates in the Rhone Valley. To reiterate, this is an estate at the top of its game and the wines remain fairly priced as well. The 2010 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Papes reveal youthful, crisper, more focused styles than their 2009 counterparts. I suspect their pHs are lower, the total acids slightly higher, and the alcohols perhaps .5 to 1% lower across the board. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228